RAMBLING TO THE RAMONA PAGEANT
May 1, 2010
Attempting to cross some items on my own personal "Bucket List" (which is pretty long at this point) I decided to attend the Ramona Pageant, the longest running outdoor drama in the United States belive it or not. Held not in Ramona, but in the hills overlooking Hemet, it utilizes an entire mountainside and ranchero as a stage showcasing a cast of over 400 actors, singers, dancers and horsement, yes, real live cowboys/vaqueros on real live horses. This romantic tragedy is baded on a novel by Helen Hunt Jackson shades of Margaret Mitchell.
Our heroine and hero are Ramona and her Indian lover, Alessandro. As this three act play enfolds, the couple meets, marries, and die involving the audience along the way in their sorrows and joys, personal and historic misfortunes such as the death of Indian life. Reminiscent of Gone With the Wind this is definitely a Southern California historic epic dealing with one civilization struggling with another, suspicion, jealousy, and denied justice.
Personally, I thought the amphitheater unique as people appeared on the hillside seemingly out of nowhere. Even though it was outside the voices projected throughout the seating area clearly. Multi-generational dancing and singing seemed authentic . Held in April and May it can get very warm out there, but we had perfect temps. The three acts run over 3 hours so be prepared with water and a hat.
We chose not to drive opting instead for a Daytripper Tour bus that left from Escondido about noon for @$100. Our package included reserved seats for the pageant (which were terrific) use of a seat cushion (which you will need), a souvenir program, a deep pit BBQ beef luncheon served outdoors on the Pageant grounds, and plenty of time to enjoy the pre-show festivities of native singing and dancing, gunfights, etc. prior to the late afternoon performance. We even had time to explore the museum and browse the gift shop. There are food booths on the grounds if you opt not to take advantage of the BBQ selling items such as Indian Fry Bread. All in all it was an enjoyable day and one I would highly recommend attending at least once in your lifetime.
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Sunday, March 21, 2010
KOWABUNGA KAUAI- FEBRUARY 2010
A KRASH KOURSE IN KAUAI - PART I
In February I returned to Kauai where, like an old friend, it welcomed me. Because of the downturn in the economy there have been some changes, but the important things like its natural beauty stayed comfortably the same. After rediscovering this island 20 years ago with fellow explorer and beach lover, Kay Coon and her daughter, Jennifer, I have returned almost every year. As a travel agent I've earned the title of Kauai Destination Specialist from the Kauai Visitor's Bureau.
To give credit where credit is due Kay and I had some help discovering places on this island from a book left in our Pono Kai condo, Lenore W. Horowitz's, The Kauai Underground Guide. For two weeks it was our bible. I mean we took it EVERYWHERE and were entranced by her wonderfully descriptive writing. For example: "On this lovely, curving beach, the sand and sea are deep gold, as if sprinkled with cinnamon...the waves rise gracefully in long, even lines crested with gold. Each wave breaks and rushes onto the sand in shining foam, and then it rolls back out again to meet the wave coming in, a fascinating ballet, sometimes meeting like dancers in perfect rhythm, sometimes colliding in bursts of spray." Get the picture? We went to that beach, Pakala's Beach, also called "Infinities", and it quickly became our favorite. Kauai, the Garden Island, the oldest of Hawaii's six major islands, and the record holder for the most rainfall is my FAVORITE island. WHY? Let me tell you (do you have a minute??? My friends know me and they say it will be more like an hour, so read on).
First, there are no structures taller than a swaying palm tree ON PURPOSE! Yes, you heard me, no Trump Tower, no high rise condos or hotels blocking your ocean view.
Second, it reminds me of the Old Hawaii. People still have the Aloha spirit here.
Third, I am NOT one for a crowded beach will wall to wall bodies-ten people on the same beach is crowded to me. On just about any day I can find a sparsely populated beach. Now, you might have to be adventurous and hike through a cow pasture to get there, park by houses on residential roads where you don't feel you belong,scramble through some rough houses on residential roads where you don't feel you belong, scramble through some rough terrain, or finally, drive down an old sugar cane road riddles with potholes, but hey! I can tell you it 's worth it. It's always a beach day on Kauai. If you see clouds in one direction, there's always sun in another. This island has 43 white sand beaches-more than any other island.
Fourth, VARIETY is the key word for this island. If you are a foodie, you can eat inexpensively at local hangouts, enjoy fine dining beachside or enjoy the ambiance in a sugar plantation manor house, or cook if y0u have a condo or rental house. Experiment with some of the different fruits and vegetables found in the farmer's markets that are held almost daily in different locations. Try local markets such as BigSave and Foodland, and yes, Martha, there is a Costco and a Safeway so there is something for everyone.
VARIETY can also be found in Kauai's activities. One just doesn't GO to Kauai, one gets INTO Kauai. 90% of this island is inaccessible so a helicopter ride over waterfalls, canyons and the coastline is a MUST,
Hikers can walk the Kalalau Trail over 3,000 foot high sea cliffs
or opt for easier trails through Waimea Canyon or other parts of the island.
Kauai is water world for sure. What does that mean? Sail, surf, windsail, snorkel (Tunnels Beach, Napali Coast, or Poipu) dive (off shore from Ni'ihau)ocean or river kayak (Wailua, Hanalei and Kalihiwai Rivers, or Hule'ia stream or Napali coastline), boogie board, fish (both rainbow trout
and deep sea), water ski, swim, and whale watch. Are there enough choices for you?
If horseback riding is your pleasure you can ride along sough shore beaches or across pastures to hidden waterfalls on the north and east sides.
Bicycling? All downhill-12 miles from Waimea Canyon to the beach or mountain bike on the Powerline Trail, 11 miles on a dirt road.
Camping-absolutely with a permit from Koke'e State Park to Anini Beach.
Golfers-there are 162 holes including the Poipu Bay Golf Course, home of the PGA Grand Slam.
For the less adventurous there are museums, shopping, beachcombing for shells and driftwood, shopping, spas, more shopping , and coffee tasting on Kauai's plantation, the largest in the state, and a tour of movie locations.
Don't let me forget the zip lines where you can view some of the most beautiful scenery ever below you.
Finally, there is VARIETY in both the climate and the terrain. Geographically, Kauai is like a little America. Think of it as a circle with three main tourist areas. Princeville and Hanalei to the north, Poipu to the south, and the Coconut Coast from Lihue to Kapa'a to the east. Each area has its own flavor.
The North Shore is the most dramatic and rural featuring deep valleys, waterfalls, the Hanalei River, rugged mountains and beautiful beaches. Rain falls the most often here. To quote Lenore again,"magnificent cliffs reach to touch the sky, and the foaming, churning surf crashes against the rocks. Here rain showers freshen the air, dance among the flowers, and make the coastline sparkle." Can you beat that?
Flat, leeward South Shore is sunnier and drier with more protected swimming and is home to mega resorts and condos.
The mostly undeveloped West Shore is sunny, arid and is characterized by historical towns. Found here is the Grand Canyon of the Pacific,
Waimea, and great beaches for walking. At the road's end is the incomparable Polehale backing up to the Napali coastline. Remember where you parked your car because the sand dunes will hide it from view. 
East stands for action, the Coconut Coast, where royalty was born, restaurants, beaches and shopping. In my opinion it is the best location being halfway between Poipu and Hanalei. Hotels are more moderately priced here as well as B&B's and condos.
Have I piqued your curiosity and whet your appetite for Kauai? I hope so. My promise to you is that Kauai will never bore you
.PART II: HOW TO SEE KAUAI IN 7 DAYS
I usually start in Kapa’a, the East side. You will have to adjust this schedule to your starting point, your appetite, stamina, etc. Days can be altered such as Weds is the best Farmer’s Market in Kapa'a, you might not be able to get your tour on the day specificied, or you might have to adjust your schedule to get Friday Night Art Night in. This is just a suggested guide if you want to cover the main and memorable sights of Kauai. Be spontaneous! Enjoy and relax if that is your main purpose. On your outings be prepared with swimsuits underneath clothes or in a beach bag in case you want to so an unplanned beach stop, a hat, sunscreen, and a light jacket for higher elevations like Waimea Canyon.
DAY 1- Settling In
Arrival at Lihue Airport. All visits begin and end here at Kauai’s only airport. Renting a car is a necessity on this island. Because there are only 3 main 2 lane roads (no freeways and few traffic lights) it’s pretty easy to get around. (Rt. 56 Kuhio Hwy goes No from Lihue to Wailua, Kapa’a and Anahola. Rt 56 curves west toward Kulauea, Princeville, Hanalei, and Ha’ena. Rt 50 Lihue south to Poipu and W to Waimea. Drivers here are polite and yield often TIP: Avoid driving between 4 and 6:30 because of commuters.
Depending on your arrival time Day 1 might be an acclamation day i.e. shop for groceries, check in, find a place for dinner. Make reservations for a Helicopter tour or any other expeditions you choose as depending on the season they fill up quickly. I recommend Sunshine Helicopters in Lihue, 3-3222 Kuhio Highway #10, 1-888-245-4354 from mainland or on island 808-245-8881. Their safety record and expertise is excellent. 11 AM is usually a good time and for a copilot seat up front the extra fee of $50 if you are a photographer will be worth it
Depending on when you arrived, if you are up for going out to eat you might want to try one of my suggestions in the other days below . There are many choices in Kauai and many different price levels. .
DAY 2 –The Dramatic North Shore
Up and out to breakfast @ 8:30 and head east and north today. My favorite breakfast place both for menu and price is the Ono Family Restaurant, Kapaa by the Pono Kai. There is usually a line outside (which goes quickly).
Heading up the east side enjoy the scenery until you arrive at your first stop, Kilauea Point
National Wildlife Refuge, the most northern part of the island and home of the town, Kilauea. Distinguished by a historic lighthouse it gives you great views of nesting seabirds, coastline, and often whales. This small town has the distinction of having the island’s best bakery in the Kong Lung Center on Lighthouse Road.. Their tropical pastries, breads, and breadsticks are famous and sell out quickly. YUMO! Pau Hana Pizza, by the bakery, has the most imaginative pizzas ever. Take time to browse the works in the shops there by Hawaiian artisans and stop in Island Soaps and Candles for souvenirs.
Continue North toward Hanalei passing scenic lookouts
and beaches (not all are visible from the road). Princeville will require a turn off and is the home of the ultra ultra St. Regis Hotel, condos and a shopping center. This is also a good place to stop off on the way home for a drink in the hotel’s outside lounge to view the sunset depending upon the time.
Back on the highway toward Hanalei stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout for a Kodak moment. Be sure to stop and stroll in this quaint town with its unique shops and restaurants. If you are hungry this is a great place either for lunch or depending on your time. dinner. The Hanalei Gourmet, a great deli, in the old schoolhouse has super sandwiches. Tropical Taco has the best fish burritos on the island (you might see their trucks around the island also). Tropical Tantrum is a must for additions to my Hawaiian wardrobe. My all time favorite in this town is the Postcards Café. The generous servings of healthy, island ingredients (try the taro fitters for appetizers), and desserts are fabulous.
Continuing north until the road ends at Ke’e Beach you will see some dry and wet sea caves. At this beach snorkeling can be good but the lifeguard stations are indications that it is not always gentle. Its popularity will require an early arrival if you plan to park and spend the day. The Napali cliffs will be on your left. If you are adventurous and have time by all means at least hike ¼ mile for great views.
You may want to be in the Kilauea area before nightfall as there are no street lights and negotiating the one lane bridges coming home can be tricky in the dark. If you didn’t stop for dinner in Hanalei or grab a pizza at Pau Hana there are many restaurants in Kapa’a (see list of my fav’s below).
After a full day of sensory stimulation from all the beautiful sights, you return to your hotel or condo.
AUTHOR’S NOTE: For a more leisurely day you could split this into two parts. After Kilauea, enjoy the beach at Anini(1 mile east of Princeville) or Pu’u Poa Beach in Princeville, Hanalei Bay, Lumahai Beach (location beach for South Pacific but a hike) or Tunnels Beach, alias Makua Beach, my personal fav. Then you could head back to your hotel and save Hanalei north for another day.
DAY 3
Today is your day for touring by helicopter since 90% of this island is inaccessible and the waterfalls, peaks, and valleys will astound you. If you can only afford one splurge on this island then this is the one. Begin with breakfast at your hotel, condo or eat at TipTop Café, Lihue (close to the helicopter pick up point). TipTop has great prices, yummy pancakes, omelets and homemade pineapple and guava jam. 3173 Akaki Street, 6:30A.M.-2.
If you have time to kill before or after your ride souvenir shopping at the Wal-Mart nearby is a best bet. The helicopter office is on the corner by Hilo Hattie’s. From there you will be shuttled to the airport-enjoy.
After your ride, while you are in Lihue, lunch at Hamura’s Saimin, a local institution is a must. This is a tiny building with horse shoe shaped counters with stools. This is some of the finest saimin around (like a soup with noodles, veggies, and meats-an island specialty). You can take it out to the beach with you or eat in. The spiced barbecued beef or chick sticks are super and do try a piece of the lilikoi (passion fruit) chiffon pie. 2956 Kress St, 10-10, 245-3271.
The afternoon will be perfect for a beach day. Close by Lihue is the Marriott with the island’s largest swimming pool and the tallest high rise (2 stories). Take Rice St through Lihue and turn left into the main entrance of the Kauai Marriott. Pass the main lobby and turn right at the first street following it down the hill to the beach access parking lot. There you will find beautiful Kalapaki Beach, a natural harbor with a wide sandy beach and some of the best swimming on the island. If there is a cruise ship in port you might want to opt for a less crowded beach. Hungry? Duke’s Barefoot Bar serves lunch, informal dinner and munchies all day is adjacent to the beach. Duke’s Canoe Club for dinner is great to watch the ocean and listen to Hawaiian music.
DAY 4 –Sunny South Shore
Getting there begins with a drive through the Tunnel of Trees, a mile long stretch of eucalyptus trees whose branches form a canopy.
From Kuhio Hwy merge right onto Hwy 50 then eight miles later turn left on Maluhia Rd. At the end you will find Koloa Town, with its quaint wooden sidewalk, art gallery, restaurant, grocery store and a few shops. Having been a sugar plantation town there is a walk through historical exhibit worth seeing.
Continuing on to Poipu you will prove if it merits its reputation for always being sunny. If you are ready for a beach stop in front of the Sheraton and Kiahuna Plantation is swimmable with a wide swatch of sand.
Poipu is a popular resort area as you will see by its abundance of condos, luxury homes, and hotels like the Hyatt and Sheraton. Shopping and lunch at the Poipu Shopping Village near Kiahuna is next. There are jewelry, home decor, clothing stores as well as being home to Roy’s and the famous Puka Dog, the Hawaiian version of the hot dog.
A hole is made in the bun which is filled with your choice of condiments including relishes of star fruit, mango, papaya, etc then stuffed with your choice of sausage. Adjacent to the shopping center is a great place for lunch or dinner, Keoki’s Paradise. The South Pacific décor will relax you and the reasonable prices will please you as well as the good food. Everyone opts for their famous Hula Pie, Oreo crust with macadamia nut ice cream and chocolate sauce.
Continue farther up the coast in Poipu to Spouting Horn, a lava tube that forces sea water as
high as 50 feet with its unique sound. on the walk to the viewing area is the daily outdoor market with great finds for souvenirs. We bought strands of fresh water pearls for $6.
On your way back you will notice that Kauai has its first round-a-bout at the junction of Poipu Rd and Lawai Rd. It leads to the newest shopping center, Kukui’ula Village, anchored by Kauai’s newest restaurant, Merriman’s from Hawaii. Merriman’s Cafe is the more casual. Stop in to the admire the brush strokes of James Hoyle at his gallery, the Kauai Van Gogh, and beat the heat with an ice cream from Lappert’s.
A stellar, famous restaurant here in Poipu is The Beach House. After being washed away by two hurricanes it has been rebuilt in its superlative beachside location. Be sure to make reservations at least a day or two in advance and ask for a window table at sunset. Pacific Rim cuisine is the name of the game here and while pricey you won’t be disappointed. Spouting Horn Road, 742-1424.
An alternative, more informal, and less expensive restaurant with equally good food would be Brennecke’s Beach Broiler. Great salad bar and family friendly. It’s located across from Poipu Beach Park and again, to avoid the line, make reservations. Ho’one Road, 742-7588
DAY 5 – Hang Loose (Best if this is a Wednesday)
Today enjoy a more leisurely pace starting with breakfast. The Kountry Kitchen in Kapa’a is another of my favorites (yes, I know I have a lot). They have terrific food, generous portions and reasonable prices. Their unique omelettes are more like a crepe, thin egg pancake wrapped around filling of your choice. The macadamia nut pancakes huge (two people could split a breakfast here) are yumo. 1485 Kuhio Hwy, 822-3511.
From there head for two more secluded beaches (here we go again-my all time favs) either Anahola Bay or Moloa’a. Anahola ‘s bay is so wide that it takes an hour to walk from end to end. Turn right off hwy 56 at Aliomanu Road and follow it to the mouth of the stream.
A little farther north is Moloa’a Bay, very few tourists go here. At the end of the road is a gate in the middle of some houses attached to a fence but do not be put off. Park on the shoulder, walk through the gate, cross the stream and hidden by the homes is this beautiful bay. Stay to the right of the stream. This too is a great bay for walking and good for snorkeling in the summer. If you are lucky and there at 5pm sometimes horses come to the stream to drink. Take Rt 56 to Kuamo’o Road, ½ mile north of 16 marker and turn right at Moloa’a Road.
No visit to the island is complete without attending a Farmer’s Market where locals pull up their trucks and cars and sell their harvests. There is one everyday somewhere on the island. One o
f the biggest is Wednesdays at 2:45 in Kapa’a behind the Armory. Take Kukui Rd off of Rt 56, turn right at the end, next right on Kahau Rd, park on the left. Get there early and bring lots of $1 bills. Things to try are the Manoa lettuce, apple bananas, star fruit, and samples are freely given. Don’t leave without a Sunrise papaya, ice cold coconut milk from the half shell and other goodies like flowers or leis. Even in a hotel room you can make a green or fruit salad and enjoy fruit for snacks and breakfast. Two other large markets are in Koloa Mondays at noon and Lihue Mondays at 3.
Choices for dinner…hmmm… foodie me always has recommendations, yes? A consistently good restaurant in the Kauai Coast Resort in Kapa’a is the Hukilau Lanai. Every table has a view, local musicians often play and the fresh island fish and Pacific Rim cuisine is terrific. The house specialty dessert is the Chocolate Macademia Cheesecake. It is located behind the Coconut Plantation Marketplace, 822-3411. Another choice is the Lemongrass Grill and Seafood and Sushi Bar, a more Thai oriented Pacific Rim Cuisine. We make a meal out of ordering several of the appetizers. In Wailua, 4-885 Kuhio Hwy, 821-2888.
DAY 6 –West Side Story
Today’s journey begins on Hwy 50 after breakfast of your choice. Bring walking shoes today. The drive to the top of Waimea Canyon is a great day trip. Driving along Koke’e Rd (Rt 550) from Rt 50 takes about 45 minutes. Be sure to stop at the scenic outlooks, especially Kalalau Lookout, for great views as you travel along the rim.
At Koke’e Lodge stop for lunch if you are ready-great soup and sandwiches. Visit the little museum there to pick up trail maps. Try to take at least one short hike. Some include waterfall sightings. On the way back stop in the town of Waimea which has a definite Western flair. A great stop for souvenirs is Auntie Lilikoi’s for jams and syrups. If you didn’t eat lunch at Koke’e Lodge, stop at Aston’s Waimea Plantation Cottages and grab a bite at the restaurant there. You will enjoy the grounds, a 27 acre coconut grove fronting a black sand beach with a variety of early 1900 Plantation Cottages that have been restored.
If you hiked you might like to take advantage of their day spa with massage services.
Continuing back home enjoy a history break at the Russian Fort Elizabeth State Historical Park located at the mouth of the Waimea River. Fort Elizabeth was named for a Russian czarina and Russia’s once held interest in Hawaii is marked by these ruins. Returning to Hwy 50 our next stop is Salt Pond Beach Park where you can either take a dip, explore the tide pools and/or view the ancient salt ponds where sea salt is still harvested. Turn left on Lele St and take the first right onto Lokokai Road continuing to the parking area.
If you have time you might want to sample Kauai’s coffee at the 4,000 acre plantation. At the visitor’s center local coffees are roasted and you can enjoy free samples and purchase to take home.
Stop in or call the Hanapepe Café in Hanapepe for reservations for dinner on Friday night Art Night. 5 pm or 8pm is a good time because the art walk begins at 6.
For your evening repast you might want to go casual and opt for Bubba Burgers –yummy burgers and be sure to try the “frings” in Poipu or Kapaa or dine more upscale at one of my most favorite restaurants, Gaylord’s at Kilohana, one of the island’s most special dining experiences. This is a restored sugar plantation estate house with a romantic garden setting for dinner (also lunch). Great food, but pricey.
Reservations usually required, just west of Lihue on Rt. 50. 245-9593 11-3 for lunch and 5-10 for dinner. Sunday brunch 9:30-3 and weekly luaus (avoid this on cruise ship nights).
DAY 7
If this is your last day you might need to eat leftovers for breakfast, revisit your favorite breakfast place or try a new venue. Then take a trip to the location made famous, The Fern Grotto. Ukulele music plays from the tour boats
as they drift gently up the Wailua River where you will disembark to view the natural cathedral 
framed by ferns. This is sort of hokey but it is a spot that made Kauai famous (think Hawaiian Wedding Song at Dano’s wedding). After that you can drive alongside the river on the highway to view ‘Opaeka’a Falls which rushes down to the river. Since this won’t take much of your time you could add this to another day and opt for an adventure. Be sure to save some energy for tonight. You will want to be on your way across the island to Hanapepe before traffic starts.
You might choose a kayak trip. One option is the kayak river tour of the Hule’la River where Indiana Jones was filmed through the Hule’ia National Wildlife Refuge with .
Another would be the Secret Falls Kayak/Hike Tour with family owned Ali’i Kayaks, http://www.aliikayaks.com/, 241-7700, Guides lead the way as you go down the north fork of the Wailua River, through the valley where you will start a short hike through a tropical rainforest ending at Secret Falls. A third option would be down the Hanalei River ending up the sandy beach by the St. Regis for a dip. You could also try horseback riding. Silver Falls Ranch in Princeville takes you to a waterfall where you can swim in the mountain stream and enjoy a picnic lunch. http://www.silverfallsranch.com/ 828-6718 and in Poipu, CJM Country Stables, where you ride through a working cattle ranch and down by the beach with a guide. http://www.cjmstables.com/, 742-6096.
Whichever you pick plan to be in Hanapepe, Kauai’s biggest little town, by about 4:30 pm. This is the town where Thorn Birds was filmed. It doesn’t take much time to walk through but you do want to explore the Swinging Bridge
and visit the small local Taro Ka chips factory at the beginning of the street and taste a sample or two or three. Small bags are for sale. This local place has survived two hurricanes and the second generation now operates it.
If you are having dinner before the Art Walk starts enjoy your vegetarian mean at the Hanapepe Café. At night there is way more atmosphere with little twinkly lights and local musicians. There are only about 8-10 tables with a tiled counter, but the food is fresh and excellent. The vegetarian lasagna is superb and the portions huge. We each had soup and split the entrée. 335-5011. After Dinner (or before depending on when you eat) all the galleries in the town open up to display their wares. Wine, punch, and pupus are served to all along with the opportunity to chat with all the artists with a variety of craftsmen from photography, pottery, jewelry, oils, clothing, and watercolors etc. Outside the shops is a little street fair with tables displaying local baked goods and crafts and different bands and strummers strategically placed on both sides of the street. Well worth the time for this is truly country Kauai.
Day 8 –Departure?
If you have more time there are certainly more tours, adventures, beaches, and restaurants to visit. If not you are packing, turning in the rental car, and heading back to the Lihue airport where your adventure began. But… you will be back. Each time I return I explore a new restaurant, location, beach or store. If you only have 7 days and your trip ended…. You will have to decide what to leave out. If you are not a beach person then perhaps you can give priority to something else. I hope this has helped and you definitely will know Kauai if you accomplished all that I set out. Aloha….
In February I returned to Kauai where, like an old friend, it welcomed me. Because of the downturn in the economy there have been some changes, but the important things like its natural beauty stayed comfortably the same. After rediscovering this island 20 years ago with fellow explorer and beach lover, Kay Coon and her daughter, Jennifer, I have returned almost every year. As a travel agent I've earned the title of Kauai Destination Specialist from the Kauai Visitor's Bureau.
To give credit where credit is due Kay and I had some help discovering places on this island from a book left in our Pono Kai condo, Lenore W. Horowitz's, The Kauai Underground Guide. For two weeks it was our bible. I mean we took it EVERYWHERE and were entranced by her wonderfully descriptive writing. For example: "On this lovely, curving beach, the sand and sea are deep gold, as if sprinkled with cinnamon...the waves rise gracefully in long, even lines crested with gold. Each wave breaks and rushes onto the sand in shining foam, and then it rolls back out again to meet the wave coming in, a fascinating ballet, sometimes meeting like dancers in perfect rhythm, sometimes colliding in bursts of spray." Get the picture? We went to that beach, Pakala's Beach, also called "Infinities", and it quickly became our favorite. Kauai, the Garden Island, the oldest of Hawaii's six major islands, and the record holder for the most rainfall is my FAVORITE island. WHY? Let me tell you (do you have a minute??? My friends know me and they say it will be more like an hour, so read on).
First, there are no structures taller than a swaying palm tree ON PURPOSE! Yes, you heard me, no Trump Tower, no high rise condos or hotels blocking your ocean view.
Second, it reminds me of the Old Hawaii. People still have the Aloha spirit here.
Third, I am NOT one for a crowded beach will wall to wall bodies-ten people on the same beach is crowded to me. On just about any day I can find a sparsely populated beach. Now, you might have to be adventurous and hike through a cow pasture to get there, park by houses on residential roads where you don't feel you belong,scramble through some rough houses on residential roads where you don't feel you belong, scramble through some rough terrain, or finally, drive down an old sugar cane road riddles with potholes, but hey! I can tell you it 's worth it. It's always a beach day on Kauai. If you see clouds in one direction, there's always sun in another. This island has 43 white sand beaches-more than any other island.
Fourth, VARIETY is the key word for this island. If you are a foodie, you can eat inexpensively at local hangouts, enjoy fine dining beachside or enjoy the ambiance in a sugar plantation manor house, or cook if y0u have a condo or rental house. Experiment with some of the different fruits and vegetables found in the farmer's markets that are held almost daily in different locations. Try local markets such as BigSave and Foodland, and yes, Martha, there is a Costco and a Safeway so there is something for everyone.
VARIETY can also be found in Kauai's activities. One just doesn't GO to Kauai, one gets INTO Kauai. 90% of this island is inaccessible so a helicopter ride over waterfalls, canyons and the coastline is a MUST,
Hikers can walk the Kalalau Trail over 3,000 foot high sea cliffs
or opt for easier trails through Waimea Canyon or other parts of the island.Kauai is water world for sure. What does that mean? Sail, surf, windsail, snorkel (Tunnels Beach, Napali Coast, or Poipu) dive (off shore from Ni'ihau)ocean or river kayak (Wailua, Hanalei and Kalihiwai Rivers, or Hule'ia stream or Napali coastline), boogie board, fish (both rainbow trout
and deep sea), water ski, swim, and whale watch. Are there enough choices for you?If horseback riding is your pleasure you can ride along sough shore beaches or across pastures to hidden waterfalls on the north and east sides.
Bicycling? All downhill-12 miles from Waimea Canyon to the beach or mountain bike on the Powerline Trail, 11 miles on a dirt road.
Camping-absolutely with a permit from Koke'e State Park to Anini Beach.
Golfers-there are 162 holes including the Poipu Bay Golf Course, home of the PGA Grand Slam.
For the less adventurous there are museums, shopping, beachcombing for shells and driftwood, shopping, spas, more shopping , and coffee tasting on Kauai's plantation, the largest in the state, and a tour of movie locations.
Don't let me forget the zip lines where you can view some of the most beautiful scenery ever below you.
Finally, there is VARIETY in both the climate and the terrain. Geographically, Kauai is like a little America. Think of it as a circle with three main tourist areas. Princeville and Hanalei to the north, Poipu to the south, and the Coconut Coast from Lihue to Kapa'a to the east. Each area has its own flavor.
The North Shore is the most dramatic and rural featuring deep valleys, waterfalls, the Hanalei River, rugged mountains and beautiful beaches. Rain falls the most often here. To quote Lenore again,"magnificent cliffs reach to touch the sky, and the foaming, churning surf crashes against the rocks. Here rain showers freshen the air, dance among the flowers, and make the coastline sparkle." Can you beat that?
Flat, leeward South Shore is sunnier and drier with more protected swimming and is home to mega resorts and condos.
The mostly undeveloped West Shore is sunny, arid and is characterized by historical towns. Found here is the Grand Canyon of the Pacific,
Waimea, and great beaches for walking. At the road's end is the incomparable Polehale backing up to the Napali coastline. Remember where you parked your car because the sand dunes will hide it from view. East stands for action, the Coconut Coast, where royalty was born, restaurants, beaches and shopping. In my opinion it is the best location being halfway between Poipu and Hanalei. Hotels are more moderately priced here as well as B&B's and condos.
Have I piqued your curiosity and whet your appetite for Kauai? I hope so. My promise to you is that Kauai will never bore you
.PART II: HOW TO SEE KAUAI IN 7 DAYSI usually start in Kapa’a, the East side. You will have to adjust this schedule to your starting point, your appetite, stamina, etc. Days can be altered such as Weds is the best Farmer’s Market in Kapa'a, you might not be able to get your tour on the day specificied, or you might have to adjust your schedule to get Friday Night Art Night in. This is just a suggested guide if you want to cover the main and memorable sights of Kauai. Be spontaneous! Enjoy and relax if that is your main purpose. On your outings be prepared with swimsuits underneath clothes or in a beach bag in case you want to so an unplanned beach stop, a hat, sunscreen, and a light jacket for higher elevations like Waimea Canyon.
DAY 1- Settling In
Arrival at Lihue Airport. All visits begin and end here at Kauai’s only airport. Renting a car is a necessity on this island. Because there are only 3 main 2 lane roads (no freeways and few traffic lights) it’s pretty easy to get around. (Rt. 56 Kuhio Hwy goes No from Lihue to Wailua, Kapa’a and Anahola. Rt 56 curves west toward Kulauea, Princeville, Hanalei, and Ha’ena. Rt 50 Lihue south to Poipu and W to Waimea. Drivers here are polite and yield often TIP: Avoid driving between 4 and 6:30 because of commuters.
Depending on your arrival time Day 1 might be an acclamation day i.e. shop for groceries, check in, find a place for dinner. Make reservations for a Helicopter tour or any other expeditions you choose as depending on the season they fill up quickly. I recommend Sunshine Helicopters in Lihue, 3-3222 Kuhio Highway #10, 1-888-245-4354 from mainland or on island 808-245-8881. Their safety record and expertise is excellent. 11 AM is usually a good time and for a copilot seat up front the extra fee of $50 if you are a photographer will be worth it
Depending on when you arrived, if you are up for going out to eat you might want to try one of my suggestions in the other days below . There are many choices in Kauai and many different price levels. .
DAY 2 –The Dramatic North Shore
Up and out to breakfast @ 8:30 and head east and north today. My favorite breakfast place both for menu and price is the Ono Family Restaurant, Kapaa by the Pono Kai. There is usually a line outside (which goes quickly).
Heading up the east side enjoy the scenery until you arrive at your first stop, Kilauea Point
National Wildlife Refuge, the most northern part of the island and home of the town, Kilauea. Distinguished by a historic lighthouse it gives you great views of nesting seabirds, coastline, and often whales. This small town has the distinction of having the island’s best bakery in the Kong Lung Center on Lighthouse Road.. Their tropical pastries, breads, and breadsticks are famous and sell out quickly. YUMO! Pau Hana Pizza, by the bakery, has the most imaginative pizzas ever. Take time to browse the works in the shops there by Hawaiian artisans and stop in Island Soaps and Candles for souvenirs.Continue North toward Hanalei passing scenic lookouts
and beaches (not all are visible from the road). Princeville will require a turn off and is the home of the ultra ultra St. Regis Hotel, condos and a shopping center. This is also a good place to stop off on the way home for a drink in the hotel’s outside lounge to view the sunset depending upon the time.Back on the highway toward Hanalei stop at the Hanalei Valley Lookout for a Kodak moment. Be sure to stop and stroll in this quaint town with its unique shops and restaurants. If you are hungry this is a great place either for lunch or depending on your time. dinner. The Hanalei Gourmet, a great deli, in the old schoolhouse has super sandwiches. Tropical Taco has the best fish burritos on the island (you might see their trucks around the island also). Tropical Tantrum is a must for additions to my Hawaiian wardrobe. My all time favorite in this town is the Postcards Café. The generous servings of healthy, island ingredients (try the taro fitters for appetizers), and desserts are fabulous.
Continuing north until the road ends at Ke’e Beach you will see some dry and wet sea caves. At this beach snorkeling can be good but the lifeguard stations are indications that it is not always gentle. Its popularity will require an early arrival if you plan to park and spend the day. The Napali cliffs will be on your left. If you are adventurous and have time by all means at least hike ¼ mile for great views.
You may want to be in the Kilauea area before nightfall as there are no street lights and negotiating the one lane bridges coming home can be tricky in the dark. If you didn’t stop for dinner in Hanalei or grab a pizza at Pau Hana there are many restaurants in Kapa’a (see list of my fav’s below).
After a full day of sensory stimulation from all the beautiful sights, you return to your hotel or condo.
AUTHOR’S NOTE: For a more leisurely day you could split this into two parts. After Kilauea, enjoy the beach at Anini(1 mile east of Princeville) or Pu’u Poa Beach in Princeville, Hanalei Bay, Lumahai Beach (location beach for South Pacific but a hike) or Tunnels Beach, alias Makua Beach, my personal fav. Then you could head back to your hotel and save Hanalei north for another day.
DAY 3
Today is your day for touring by helicopter since 90% of this island is inaccessible and the waterfalls, peaks, and valleys will astound you. If you can only afford one splurge on this island then this is the one. Begin with breakfast at your hotel, condo or eat at TipTop Café, Lihue (close to the helicopter pick up point). TipTop has great prices, yummy pancakes, omelets and homemade pineapple and guava jam. 3173 Akaki Street, 6:30A.M.-2.
If you have time to kill before or after your ride souvenir shopping at the Wal-Mart nearby is a best bet. The helicopter office is on the corner by Hilo Hattie’s. From there you will be shuttled to the airport-enjoy.
After your ride, while you are in Lihue, lunch at Hamura’s Saimin, a local institution is a must. This is a tiny building with horse shoe shaped counters with stools. This is some of the finest saimin around (like a soup with noodles, veggies, and meats-an island specialty). You can take it out to the beach with you or eat in. The spiced barbecued beef or chick sticks are super and do try a piece of the lilikoi (passion fruit) chiffon pie. 2956 Kress St, 10-10, 245-3271.
The afternoon will be perfect for a beach day. Close by Lihue is the Marriott with the island’s largest swimming pool and the tallest high rise (2 stories). Take Rice St through Lihue and turn left into the main entrance of the Kauai Marriott. Pass the main lobby and turn right at the first street following it down the hill to the beach access parking lot. There you will find beautiful Kalapaki Beach, a natural harbor with a wide sandy beach and some of the best swimming on the island. If there is a cruise ship in port you might want to opt for a less crowded beach. Hungry? Duke’s Barefoot Bar serves lunch, informal dinner and munchies all day is adjacent to the beach. Duke’s Canoe Club for dinner is great to watch the ocean and listen to Hawaiian music.
DAY 4 –Sunny South Shore
Getting there begins with a drive through the Tunnel of Trees, a mile long stretch of eucalyptus trees whose branches form a canopy.
From Kuhio Hwy merge right onto Hwy 50 then eight miles later turn left on Maluhia Rd. At the end you will find Koloa Town, with its quaint wooden sidewalk, art gallery, restaurant, grocery store and a few shops. Having been a sugar plantation town there is a walk through historical exhibit worth seeing.Continuing on to Poipu you will prove if it merits its reputation for always being sunny. If you are ready for a beach stop in front of the Sheraton and Kiahuna Plantation is swimmable with a wide swatch of sand.
Poipu is a popular resort area as you will see by its abundance of condos, luxury homes, and hotels like the Hyatt and Sheraton. Shopping and lunch at the Poipu Shopping Village near Kiahuna is next. There are jewelry, home decor, clothing stores as well as being home to Roy’s and the famous Puka Dog, the Hawaiian version of the hot dog. A hole is made in the bun which is filled with your choice of condiments including relishes of star fruit, mango, papaya, etc then stuffed with your choice of sausage. Adjacent to the shopping center is a great place for lunch or dinner, Keoki’s Paradise. The South Pacific décor will relax you and the reasonable prices will please you as well as the good food. Everyone opts for their famous Hula Pie, Oreo crust with macadamia nut ice cream and chocolate sauce.Continue farther up the coast in Poipu to Spouting Horn, a lava tube that forces sea water as
high as 50 feet with its unique sound. on the walk to the viewing area is the daily outdoor market with great finds for souvenirs. We bought strands of fresh water pearls for $6.On your way back you will notice that Kauai has its first round-a-bout at the junction of Poipu Rd and Lawai Rd. It leads to the newest shopping center, Kukui’ula Village, anchored by Kauai’s newest restaurant, Merriman’s from Hawaii. Merriman’s Cafe is the more casual. Stop in to the admire the brush strokes of James Hoyle at his gallery, the Kauai Van Gogh, and beat the heat with an ice cream from Lappert’s.
A stellar, famous restaurant here in Poipu is The Beach House. After being washed away by two hurricanes it has been rebuilt in its superlative beachside location. Be sure to make reservations at least a day or two in advance and ask for a window table at sunset. Pacific Rim cuisine is the name of the game here and while pricey you won’t be disappointed. Spouting Horn Road, 742-1424.
An alternative, more informal, and less expensive restaurant with equally good food would be Brennecke’s Beach Broiler. Great salad bar and family friendly. It’s located across from Poipu Beach Park and again, to avoid the line, make reservations. Ho’one Road, 742-7588
DAY 5 – Hang Loose (Best if this is a Wednesday)
Today enjoy a more leisurely pace starting with breakfast. The Kountry Kitchen in Kapa’a is another of my favorites (yes, I know I have a lot). They have terrific food, generous portions and reasonable prices. Their unique omelettes are more like a crepe, thin egg pancake wrapped around filling of your choice. The macadamia nut pancakes huge (two people could split a breakfast here) are yumo. 1485 Kuhio Hwy, 822-3511.
From there head for two more secluded beaches (here we go again-my all time favs) either Anahola Bay or Moloa’a. Anahola ‘s bay is so wide that it takes an hour to walk from end to end. Turn right off hwy 56 at Aliomanu Road and follow it to the mouth of the stream.
A little farther north is Moloa’a Bay, very few tourists go here. At the end of the road is a gate in the middle of some houses attached to a fence but do not be put off. Park on the shoulder, walk through the gate, cross the stream and hidden by the homes is this beautiful bay. Stay to the right of the stream. This too is a great bay for walking and good for snorkeling in the summer. If you are lucky and there at 5pm sometimes horses come to the stream to drink. Take Rt 56 to Kuamo’o Road, ½ mile north of 16 marker and turn right at Moloa’a Road.
No visit to the island is complete without attending a Farmer’s Market where locals pull up their trucks and cars and sell their harvests. There is one everyday somewhere on the island. One o
f the biggest is Wednesdays at 2:45 in Kapa’a behind the Armory. Take Kukui Rd off of Rt 56, turn right at the end, next right on Kahau Rd, park on the left. Get there early and bring lots of $1 bills. Things to try are the Manoa lettuce, apple bananas, star fruit, and samples are freely given. Don’t leave without a Sunrise papaya, ice cold coconut milk from the half shell and other goodies like flowers or leis. Even in a hotel room you can make a green or fruit salad and enjoy fruit for snacks and breakfast. Two other large markets are in Koloa Mondays at noon and Lihue Mondays at 3.Choices for dinner…hmmm… foodie me always has recommendations, yes? A consistently good restaurant in the Kauai Coast Resort in Kapa’a is the Hukilau Lanai. Every table has a view, local musicians often play and the fresh island fish and Pacific Rim cuisine is terrific. The house specialty dessert is the Chocolate Macademia Cheesecake. It is located behind the Coconut Plantation Marketplace, 822-3411. Another choice is the Lemongrass Grill and Seafood and Sushi Bar, a more Thai oriented Pacific Rim Cuisine. We make a meal out of ordering several of the appetizers. In Wailua, 4-885 Kuhio Hwy, 821-2888.
DAY 6 –West Side Story
Today’s journey begins on Hwy 50 after breakfast of your choice. Bring walking shoes today. The drive to the top of Waimea Canyon is a great day trip. Driving along Koke’e Rd (Rt 550) from Rt 50 takes about 45 minutes. Be sure to stop at the scenic outlooks, especially Kalalau Lookout, for great views as you travel along the rim.
At Koke’e Lodge stop for lunch if you are ready-great soup and sandwiches. Visit the little museum there to pick up trail maps. Try to take at least one short hike. Some include waterfall sightings. On the way back stop in the town of Waimea which has a definite Western flair. A great stop for souvenirs is Auntie Lilikoi’s for jams and syrups. If you didn’t eat lunch at Koke’e Lodge, stop at Aston’s Waimea Plantation Cottages and grab a bite at the restaurant there. You will enjoy the grounds, a 27 acre coconut grove fronting a black sand beach with a variety of early 1900 Plantation Cottages that have been restored.
If you hiked you might like to take advantage of their day spa with massage services.Continuing back home enjoy a history break at the Russian Fort Elizabeth State Historical Park located at the mouth of the Waimea River. Fort Elizabeth was named for a Russian czarina and Russia’s once held interest in Hawaii is marked by these ruins. Returning to Hwy 50 our next stop is Salt Pond Beach Park where you can either take a dip, explore the tide pools and/or view the ancient salt ponds where sea salt is still harvested. Turn left on Lele St and take the first right onto Lokokai Road continuing to the parking area.
If you have time you might want to sample Kauai’s coffee at the 4,000 acre plantation. At the visitor’s center local coffees are roasted and you can enjoy free samples and purchase to take home.
Stop in or call the Hanapepe Café in Hanapepe for reservations for dinner on Friday night Art Night. 5 pm or 8pm is a good time because the art walk begins at 6.
For your evening repast you might want to go casual and opt for Bubba Burgers –yummy burgers and be sure to try the “frings” in Poipu or Kapaa or dine more upscale at one of my most favorite restaurants, Gaylord’s at Kilohana, one of the island’s most special dining experiences. This is a restored sugar plantation estate house with a romantic garden setting for dinner (also lunch). Great food, but pricey.
Reservations usually required, just west of Lihue on Rt. 50. 245-9593 11-3 for lunch and 5-10 for dinner. Sunday brunch 9:30-3 and weekly luaus (avoid this on cruise ship nights).DAY 7
If this is your last day you might need to eat leftovers for breakfast, revisit your favorite breakfast place or try a new venue. Then take a trip to the location made famous, The Fern Grotto. Ukulele music plays from the tour boats
as they drift gently up the Wailua River where you will disembark to view the natural cathedral framed by ferns. This is sort of hokey but it is a spot that made Kauai famous (think Hawaiian Wedding Song at Dano’s wedding). After that you can drive alongside the river on the highway to view ‘Opaeka’a Falls which rushes down to the river. Since this won’t take much of your time you could add this to another day and opt for an adventure. Be sure to save some energy for tonight. You will want to be on your way across the island to Hanapepe before traffic starts.You might choose a kayak trip. One option is the kayak river tour of the Hule’la River where Indiana Jones was filmed through the Hule’ia National Wildlife Refuge with .
Another would be the Secret Falls Kayak/Hike Tour with family owned Ali’i Kayaks, http://www.aliikayaks.com/, 241-7700, Guides lead the way as you go down the north fork of the Wailua River, through the valley where you will start a short hike through a tropical rainforest ending at Secret Falls. A third option would be down the Hanalei River ending up the sandy beach by the St. Regis for a dip. You could also try horseback riding. Silver Falls Ranch in Princeville takes you to a waterfall where you can swim in the mountain stream and enjoy a picnic lunch. http://www.silverfallsranch.com/ 828-6718 and in Poipu, CJM Country Stables, where you ride through a working cattle ranch and down by the beach with a guide. http://www.cjmstables.com/, 742-6096.Whichever you pick plan to be in Hanapepe, Kauai’s biggest little town, by about 4:30 pm. This is the town where Thorn Birds was filmed. It doesn’t take much time to walk through but you do want to explore the Swinging Bridge
and visit the small local Taro Ka chips factory at the beginning of the street and taste a sample or two or three. Small bags are for sale. This local place has survived two hurricanes and the second generation now operates it.If you are having dinner before the Art Walk starts enjoy your vegetarian mean at the Hanapepe Café. At night there is way more atmosphere with little twinkly lights and local musicians. There are only about 8-10 tables with a tiled counter, but the food is fresh and excellent. The vegetarian lasagna is superb and the portions huge. We each had soup and split the entrée. 335-5011. After Dinner (or before depending on when you eat) all the galleries in the town open up to display their wares. Wine, punch, and pupus are served to all along with the opportunity to chat with all the artists with a variety of craftsmen from photography, pottery, jewelry, oils, clothing, and watercolors etc. Outside the shops is a little street fair with tables displaying local baked goods and crafts and different bands and strummers strategically placed on both sides of the street. Well worth the time for this is truly country Kauai.
Day 8 –Departure?
If you have more time there are certainly more tours, adventures, beaches, and restaurants to visit. If not you are packing, turning in the rental car, and heading back to the Lihue airport where your adventure began. But… you will be back. Each time I return I explore a new restaurant, location, beach or store. If you only have 7 days and your trip ended…. You will have to decide what to leave out. If you are not a beach person then perhaps you can give priority to something else. I hope this has helped and you definitely will know Kauai if you accomplished all that I set out. Aloha….
KOWABUNGA KAUAI-PART 2
Here are helpful (hopefully) websites and phone numbers :
VISITOR INFORMATION: WWW. ALOHA-HAWAII.COM,808-543-2509 AND WWW.KAUAIDISCOVERY.COM (Kauai Visitors Bureau)
RESTAURANTS:
- Kountry Kitchen 808-822-3511
- Ono Family Restaurant 822-1710
- Hanalei Gourmet 826-2524
- Postcards Cafe 826-1191
- Beach House 742-1424
- Hanapepe Cafe 335-5011
- Hukilau Lanai 822-3441
- Ono Burger 822-9181
- TropicalTaco 827-8226
- Bubba's Burgers 823-0069
- Hamura's Saimen 245-3271
- Tip Top Cafe 245-2333
- Gaylords at Kilohana 245-9593
- Keoki's Paradise www.hulapie.com 742-7534
- Roy's 742-5000
- Duke's Canoe Club Restaurant & Beachfront Bar 332-5858
- Lemongrass Grill 821-2888
- Brennecke's Beach Broiler 888-384-8810
- Pau Hana Bakery 828-2020
PLACES TO STAY:
- Aston Waimea Plantation Cottages 866-774-2924,waimeacottages.com
- Outrigger Waipouli Beach Resort & Spa (high end condos),www.outriggerwaipoulibeach.com 800/outrigger
- Sheraton Kauai sheraton-kauai.com,808-742-4074
- Outrigger Kiahuna Plantation , outriggerkiahunaplantation.com 800-688-7444
- Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa www.k.hyatt.com
- Vacation Rentals by Owner, vrbo.com (search for anini beach,moaloa bay, anahola beach, poipu etc)
- Pono Kai Resort 800-456-0009 wwwbluegreenrentals.com
MISCELLANEOUS RECREATION:
- Kayak Alii Kayaks 877-248-alii aliikayaks.com
- Smith's FErn Grotto/Wailua River Cruise 8821-6880 smithskauai.com
- Outfitters Kauai-zipline and kayak,outfitterskauai.com,888/742-9887,808 742-9667
- Sunshine Helilcopters www.sunshinehelicopters.com 1-888-245-1354
- Silver Falls Ranch-horseback riding wilverfallsranch.com,828-6718 or
- CJM Stables www.cjmstables.com 742-6096
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
DAYTRIPPING IN DECEMBER
Much as I'd like to escape in December "stuff" seems to get in the way, so let me clue you in on an alternative solution-a DAYcation! Thanks to my Coaster buddy, Terry, I plugged into a company that plans all kinds of interesting and varied excursions (some even multi-nights). Check out http://www.daytripper.com/ , 3585 Adams Avenue, San Diego, 92116, 619-299-5777 or 800-679-8747. They offer many departure pickups all over San Diego including one in Orange County, depending on the tour. Each tour is assigned an activity level from easy, moderate, to high which allows you to determine the possibilities for you. I recommend that you sign up for their mailing list to get their catalog and be on their email list for specials. Check it out!!
Saturday, December 12, 2009 - Christmas Around the World at Reagan Library
Each year, the Reagan Presidential Museum in Simi Valley includes an additional holiday exhibit entitled "Christmas Around the World",a collection of 30 uniquely decorated Christmas trees representing the cultural traditions of countries President Reagan visited during his eight years in the White House. Taking the bus was definitely a factor both because of the distance and the rainy weather. Christmas music added to the experience and each of us had our favorite
. The China tree was especially creative festooned with pandas and dragons. Amazed at how much Reagan memorabilia there was, the presentation was very organized and well laid out. Mementos from his childhood, Hollywood career, courtship of Nancy, and politics included movies, a car, booth at Chasen's restaurant (a favorite dining spot) and videos . I found it particularly awesome to walk through Air Force One, once used by President Reagan and six 
other presidents. The enormity of the plane was noted when we enjoyed a sumptious catered buffet luncheon under its wing, complete with a souvenir cup. If you are planning a visit to the library try to go when the holiday display is there. It will be even more enjoyable.
Sunday, December 6, 2009 Christmas at the Castle Green
For our first venture, Sheryl and I departed the La Costa Park and Ride at 8:30 A.M. with a full bus consisting of about 6 couples and mostly single women with an age range from 35-70 I'd say. A coffee break at El Toro on the way gave us time to take a quick peek at the Christmas Plants and trees at Green Thumb Nursery, a long time fav of mine. En route for the next hour or so we were treated to apple or cranberry juice and granola bars to tide us over until lunch in Old Town Pasadena. Arriving on Green Street at 11 A.M. we were given both shopping and lunch time. Old Pasadena (not old to me as it was my stomping grounds in the 60's)is comprised of major stores like Crate and Barrel, Armani, Chico's etc. along with small specialty stores, dining, and entertainment. For a listing of stores to go http://www.oldpasadena.org/ . If you plan to drive from San Diego you would go north on % to the 57 to the 210 west. Allow about 2 1/2 hrs driving time.
En route we detoured to a quick drive-by tour of the Rose Bowl and other areas of historical Pasadena finally arriving at our destination on Green Street. Deboarding the bus, we checked out a tip for a store called Gold Bug and found a macabre, unique jewelry and decor store with MAJOR attitude. On to Dots Cupcakes, 21 N. Fair Oaks, 626-568-3487 where under the guise of "research" for my pastry chef friend, Pam, we had to sample. Minis at $1.50 each were just the right size for variety (and there are many choices). I purchased both a hazelnut with white chocolate ganache frosting and chocolate with caramel fleur de sel frosting. Two days later they were still moist and oh, so flavorful. Don't miss it. A quick sandwich at the Aux Delices Bakery and Cafe, 16 W. Colorado Blvd, 6o26o-796-1630 and we were fueled. Their bakery case was tempting with raspberry tarts piled high with fresh raspberries. Being cooks we couldn't resist a stop at Beyond The Olive, http://www.beyondtheolive.com/, for different flavored olive oil and balsamic vinegars. They also produce their own here. If you purchase one of theirs you can be green by bringing the bottle back for refills. Peach Balsamic Vinegar (theirs and I can't wait to try it via a salad dressing) and roasted garlic olive oil (not theirs but great for sauteing) were additions to my shopping bag. We passed and were impressed with The Scarlet Tea Room, 18 W. Green St., 626-577o-0051, but didn't have enough time to indulge in a sit down and we thought it was a little pricey. A save for the future we decided. Also discovered an old favorite of mine from the Belmont Shores area, Russell's, 30 N. Fair Oaks Blvd., 626-578-1404 . In order there is great chili, pies, and hamburgers. Do try it for casual, yummy, comfort food. Running out of time before we had to rendezvous with the bus we made a quick dash into Stat's Floral supply, 120 S. Raymond Ave., 626-795-9308. My Christmas trees have been decorated using their stock and ideas since 1972, although the one in San Juan Capistrano is much closer for us San Diego folks.
12:40 and we are on the bus going around the corner amazed at the line stretching around the block for Castle Green. One of the perks of being on a tour is getting to enter first, yay! Castle Green is normally closed to the public, but for one afternoon during the holiday season (and another in the Spring) to those interested in history, creative interior design, and cultural heritage the Friends of Castle Green open its doors to the public for a $20 self-guided tour. Docents are also available. The hotel played host to vacationing business tycoons, movie stars, and even presidents, but now is the private residence of designers, musicians, collectors, artists, and producers, among others. It is also used as a location for movies, commercials, TV shows, and weddings. One enters the Main Salon and walks at his own pace through the corridors and inside all the individual condos which are all differently decorated especially for the holidays. I will digress for a bit and give you a little history.
Originally it was the Hotel Green built by Edward C. Webster in 1887. With elaborate plans he donated land to the Santa Fe Railroad for a passenger terminal next to the hotel. Overextended, he lost the hotel to G. G. Green who expanded it by adding two annexes designed by Frederick Roehrig who used a combination of Moorish, Victorian, and Mission Revival styles. Seven stories high with 550 bedrooms and 350 bathrooms it had the distinction of being the only fireproof hotel in California (hence the concrete floors to be found in almost all the units). Two circular towers attached to the two corners gave it is nickname of Castle Green.
Starting at the Penthouse on the top floor we worked our way down. On each floor there were anywhere from 2-6 condos opened by the owners for viewing. Wandering through, talking to almost all the owners, and admiring the different treatments given each unit took us about 3 1/2 hours. We marveled over how these units varying in size from @800-1200 sq ft could be so different and yet seem spacious. Each had charming little balconies and while the kitchens were very small some had a sub zero frig or Viking range scaled down to fit while preserving the historical element of the unit.
Our first condo, 610, is owned by Martin Sheen's son and his partner. We were fortunate enough to find his mother decorating their tree and actually got to be up close and personal with Martin himself. We found one condo for sale for $385,000 ( a bargain considering that all the utilities are included and given the location-walking distance of major shops and restaurants). Several are for rent @ #2,000 a month. The laundry room is in the basement, a covered parking space insured and usually the appliances. I'm told listings are often found on Craig's List. Our two favorites were one on the second floor which formerly was occupied by Tim Burton and another on the upper floors.
Arriving back in the Main Salon and Lobby where we enjoyed the beautiful Christmas tree and floral arrangements we found a smorgasbord of appetizers and desserts by varied caterers-everything from Asian Slaw, Bruschetta, mini cheesecakes, a chocolate fondue fountain, cookies, nachos, shrimp cocktail, and coffee, tea, and hot cider. Yes, we indulged (I'm told that presentation is not the norm). A pianist serenaded us with Christmas carols and a good time was had by all.
Back on the bus at 4 we were given bottled water, Chex mix or cookies, and a special little gift of a candy can pen, chocolates, and small notepad bagged for us by Daytrippers-a nice touch. They are very organized and really do think of everything. Kudos to Karrie, our tour guide, and Miranda, the driver. In case you haven't done a shore excursion or guided bus trip it is customary to give a tip of $1-5 to each at the end of the trip. After a short stop in San Juan Capistrano we arrived back in La Costa at 6:30 P.M. vowing to do this again next year and to check out more day excursions sponsored by Daytrippers. Try it-you won't be disappointed.
DAYTRIPPER TOUR 2-DECEMBER 12, 2009
Wednesday, December 16, 2009 -Festival of Lights at the Mission Inn, Riverside
Much as I'd like to escape in December "stuff" seems to get in the way, so let me clue you in on an alternative solution-a DAYcation! Thanks to my Coaster buddy, Terry, I plugged into a company that plans all kinds of interesting and varied excursions (some even multi-nights). Check out http://www.daytripper.com/ , 3585 Adams Avenue, San Diego, 92116, 619-299-5777 or 800-679-8747. They offer many departure pickups all over San Diego including one in Orange County, depending on the tour. Each tour is assigned an activity level from easy, moderate, to high which allows you to determine the possibilities for you. I recommend that you sign up for their mailing list to get their catalog and be on their email list for specials. Check it out!!
Saturday, December 12, 2009 - Christmas Around the World at Reagan Library
Each year, the Reagan Presidential Museum in Simi Valley includes an additional holiday exhibit entitled "Christmas Around the World",a collection of 30 uniquely decorated Christmas trees representing the cultural traditions of countries President Reagan visited during his eight years in the White House. Taking the bus was definitely a factor both because of the distance and the rainy weather. Christmas music added to the experience and each of us had our favorite
. The China tree was especially creative festooned with pandas and dragons. Amazed at how much Reagan memorabilia there was, the presentation was very organized and well laid out. Mementos from his childhood, Hollywood career, courtship of Nancy, and politics included movies, a car, booth at Chasen's restaurant (a favorite dining spot) and videos . I found it particularly awesome to walk through Air Force One, once used by President Reagan and six other presidents. The enormity of the plane was noted when we enjoyed a sumptious catered buffet luncheon under its wing, complete with a souvenir cup. If you are planning a visit to the library try to go when the holiday display is there. It will be even more enjoyable.Sunday, December 6, 2009 Christmas at the Castle Green
For our first venture, Sheryl and I departed the La Costa Park and Ride at 8:30 A.M. with a full bus consisting of about 6 couples and mostly single women with an age range from 35-70 I'd say. A coffee break at El Toro on the way gave us time to take a quick peek at the Christmas Plants and trees at Green Thumb Nursery, a long time fav of mine. En route for the next hour or so we were treated to apple or cranberry juice and granola bars to tide us over until lunch in Old Town Pasadena. Arriving on Green Street at 11 A.M. we were given both shopping and lunch time. Old Pasadena (not old to me as it was my stomping grounds in the 60's)is comprised of major stores like Crate and Barrel, Armani, Chico's etc. along with small specialty stores, dining, and entertainment. For a listing of stores to go http://www.oldpasadena.org/ . If you plan to drive from San Diego you would go north on % to the 57 to the 210 west. Allow about 2 1/2 hrs driving time.
En route we detoured to a quick drive-by tour of the Rose Bowl and other areas of historical Pasadena finally arriving at our destination on Green Street. Deboarding the bus, we checked out a tip for a store called Gold Bug and found a macabre, unique jewelry and decor store with MAJOR attitude. On to Dots Cupcakes, 21 N. Fair Oaks, 626-568-3487 where under the guise of "research" for my pastry chef friend, Pam, we had to sample. Minis at $1.50 each were just the right size for variety (and there are many choices). I purchased both a hazelnut with white chocolate ganache frosting and chocolate with caramel fleur de sel frosting. Two days later they were still moist and oh, so flavorful. Don't miss it. A quick sandwich at the Aux Delices Bakery and Cafe, 16 W. Colorado Blvd, 6o26o-796-1630 and we were fueled. Their bakery case was tempting with raspberry tarts piled high with fresh raspberries. Being cooks we couldn't resist a stop at Beyond The Olive, http://www.beyondtheolive.com/, for different flavored olive oil and balsamic vinegars. They also produce their own here. If you purchase one of theirs you can be green by bringing the bottle back for refills. Peach Balsamic Vinegar (theirs and I can't wait to try it via a salad dressing) and roasted garlic olive oil (not theirs but great for sauteing) were additions to my shopping bag. We passed and were impressed with The Scarlet Tea Room, 18 W. Green St., 626-577o-0051, but didn't have enough time to indulge in a sit down and we thought it was a little pricey. A save for the future we decided. Also discovered an old favorite of mine from the Belmont Shores area, Russell's, 30 N. Fair Oaks Blvd., 626-578-1404 . In order there is great chili, pies, and hamburgers. Do try it for casual, yummy, comfort food. Running out of time before we had to rendezvous with the bus we made a quick dash into Stat's Floral supply, 120 S. Raymond Ave., 626-795-9308. My Christmas trees have been decorated using their stock and ideas since 1972, although the one in San Juan Capistrano is much closer for us San Diego folks.
12:40 and we are on the bus going around the corner amazed at the line stretching around the block for Castle Green. One of the perks of being on a tour is getting to enter first, yay! Castle Green is normally closed to the public, but for one afternoon during the holiday season (and another in the Spring) to those interested in history, creative interior design, and cultural heritage the Friends of Castle Green open its doors to the public for a $20 self-guided tour. Docents are also available. The hotel played host to vacationing business tycoons, movie stars, and even presidents, but now is the private residence of designers, musicians, collectors, artists, and producers, among others. It is also used as a location for movies, commercials, TV shows, and weddings. One enters the Main Salon and walks at his own pace through the corridors and inside all the individual condos which are all differently decorated especially for the holidays. I will digress for a bit and give you a little history.
Originally it was the Hotel Green built by Edward C. Webster in 1887. With elaborate plans he donated land to the Santa Fe Railroad for a passenger terminal next to the hotel. Overextended, he lost the hotel to G. G. Green who expanded it by adding two annexes designed by Frederick Roehrig who used a combination of Moorish, Victorian, and Mission Revival styles. Seven stories high with 550 bedrooms and 350 bathrooms it had the distinction of being the only fireproof hotel in California (hence the concrete floors to be found in almost all the units). Two circular towers attached to the two corners gave it is nickname of Castle Green.
Starting at the Penthouse on the top floor we worked our way down. On each floor there were anywhere from 2-6 condos opened by the owners for viewing. Wandering through, talking to almost all the owners, and admiring the different treatments given each unit took us about 3 1/2 hours. We marveled over how these units varying in size from @800-1200 sq ft could be so different and yet seem spacious. Each had charming little balconies and while the kitchens were very small some had a sub zero frig or Viking range scaled down to fit while preserving the historical element of the unit.
Our first condo, 610, is owned by Martin Sheen's son and his partner. We were fortunate enough to find his mother decorating their tree and actually got to be up close and personal with Martin himself. We found one condo for sale for $385,000 ( a bargain considering that all the utilities are included and given the location-walking distance of major shops and restaurants). Several are for rent @ #2,000 a month. The laundry room is in the basement, a covered parking space insured and usually the appliances. I'm told listings are often found on Craig's List. Our two favorites were one on the second floor which formerly was occupied by Tim Burton and another on the upper floors.
Arriving back in the Main Salon and Lobby where we enjoyed the beautiful Christmas tree and floral arrangements we found a smorgasbord of appetizers and desserts by varied caterers-everything from Asian Slaw, Bruschetta, mini cheesecakes, a chocolate fondue fountain, cookies, nachos, shrimp cocktail, and coffee, tea, and hot cider. Yes, we indulged (I'm told that presentation is not the norm). A pianist serenaded us with Christmas carols and a good time was had by all.
Back on the bus at 4 we were given bottled water, Chex mix or cookies, and a special little gift of a candy can pen, chocolates, and small notepad bagged for us by Daytrippers-a nice touch. They are very organized and really do think of everything. Kudos to Karrie, our tour guide, and Miranda, the driver. In case you haven't done a shore excursion or guided bus trip it is customary to give a tip of $1-5 to each at the end of the trip. After a short stop in San Juan Capistrano we arrived back in La Costa at 6:30 P.M. vowing to do this again next year and to check out more day excursions sponsored by Daytrippers. Try it-you won't be disappointed.
DAYTRIPPER TOUR 2-DECEMBER 12, 2009
Wednesday, December 16, 2009 -Festival of Lights at the Mission Inn, Riverside
Continuing with the local finds for Christmas spirit Susan and I set out for the Mission Inn in Riverside to view their much touted Festival of Lights. Arriving early afternoon we decided to check out downtown Riverside around the Inn. We started with a stretch of Main Street that is purely pedestrian. Many antique and collectible stores are interspersed with restaurants. One of the more popular eclectic collections was Mrs. Tiggy Winkles at 3675 Main Street. I liked Magnolia's, 3643 Main Street, and Maria's Antiques (where I found some divine votive holders)3563 Main Street. Not lacking in lunch spots we chose the Tamale Factory at 3663 Main Street (the sweet corn tamales with tomatillo sauce -YUM!) The menu selections (placed while in line) were healthy and unique and the prices reasonable. Simple Simon's, 3639 Main Street, came highly recommended but the line was long. Specialities there included fresh-baked sourdough bread, soups, and sandwiches, also reasonable prices. Full service restaurants, eclectic, ethnic, fine dining, coffee stops (yay Starbucks) snacks and more are plentiful in this area.
After exploring we checked in to the Mission Inn , 3649 Mission Inn Avenue, 951-784-0300, http://www.missioninn.com/ . Never having been a mission in reality, it is like Hearst Castle wit restaurants-Duane's Prime Steaks & Seafood, an AAA 4 diamond steak house,Las Campanas Mexican Cuisine and Cantina,Bella Trattoria Italian Bistro, and the Mission Inn Restaurant, their signature comfort food restaurant. There is also 54degrees, a wine bar. Hotelier Frank Miller began promoting the Inn around the turn of the century. He traveled the world and added wings to the inn just seven years after its 1903 opening, each one a souvenir of a different architectural twist that had impressed him: Gothic, Moorish, Tudor, Italian Renaissance, Japanese. Every facade, balcony, stairwell, light fixture and window got its embellishment-Tiffany stained glass, gold leaf, marble, tiles, ironwork etc. It isn't a resort-no tennis court, putting greens, game arcades, just a large swimming pool , an elegant garden, and Kelly's Spa. 
Our package at $229 included a $25 restaurant credit and valet parking (well worth it as the line of people approaching the hotel all day and night lined up for blocks). Our room was elegant yet historic , spacious and airy, with pleasing colors. As with most historic hotels the soundproofing is lacking. Dining on the Patio at the Mission Inn Cafe was a must 
-all the better to see the lights and characters above us. We opted for the Grilled filet of Alaskan Halibut served with marbled mashed potatoes, citrus cream sauce , seasonal vegetables and fruit salsa. Our meals were delicious and the atmosphere amazing. We never knew where to look next as twinkling lights, statues of carolers, and animated figures dazzled us. Little did we know that those sights were just a harbinger of the courtyard and outside visuals. From the day after Thanksgiving two million bulbs and hundreds (yes ,literally) animated and real characters put the Inn into a Disney Electric Light Parade mode . Viewed from across the street it was Currier and Ives all over again. Awesome... we decided that we would return next year, but the day after Thanksgiving this time because when the lights go on for the first night of the season there is a fireworks extravaganza . Children and families abounded all agog at the spectacle. Not to be outdone the pedestrian mall came alive at night with an ice skating rink, gingerbread stands, hot cocoa and cider, kettle corn, funnel cakes, a Santa picture opportunity, and school choirs serenading. If you venture to Riverside for this unique sight it might be well worth the $$ to spend the night. It is jammed and fighting the crowds for parking isn't pretty. The hotel also offers guided tours for a small fee.
The Mission Inn can be reached via State Highway 60, 90 or interstate 215. There is also a Metrolink station less than a mile away .
Thursday, November 12, 2009
Wandering in Virginia-Richmond,Williamsburg,Jamestown and Yorktown November 2009
Recipe for a Great Trip-Take 2 ex history teachers, add one available timeshare, mix in historical sights/sites, and sprinkle with fall foliage. Voila! You have a perfect vacation which is what the following was.
Handmade chcolates on our pillow was a perk. The desk clerk recommended Juleps, http://www.juleps.com/, in one of the city's oldest commercial buildings. Walking carefully along dark, cobble stoned streets in 42 degrees we passed the empty farmer's market and reached our destination. Escorted up a spiral staircase we reached the dining room beneath an open attic with original exposed beams dating back to 1737. After perusing the tantalizing menu with the help of our water, Ben, we ordered Fried Green tomato Beignets with a roasted Jalapeno lemon aoli-YUM! For an entree I ordered jumbo lump crab cakes with black lentils, rice, and roasted sweet corn mixed together topped with a green tomato-avocado guacamole and coriander sauce-Scrumptious! Kathy tried her first Mint Julep (they even gave you the recipe). Not my favorite drink but admittedly, better than my first one at Kentucky Derby-give me a pomegranate martini anytime. I chose a glass of wine from their extensive list. Kathy's entree was the grilled New York steak with a blue cheese, applewood bacon crust served with garlic confit mashed potatoes, Vidalia onion rings,creamy spinach and sherry vinegar beef just. I would recommend this restaurant highly to everyone.
THURSDAY,NOVEMBER 5, 2009
At breakfast we sought advice from the maitre'd and set off for the Edgar Allen Poe Museum where we squeezed in between two 8th grade field trips (they warned us,but we thought we could handle it.) Poe was raised in Richmond. This complex has four buildings with rare first editions, a gallery of illustrations inspired by The Raven, along with a model of early 19th century Richmond.
Our next stop is St. John's Church at 2401 Broad Street where in 1775 the Virginia Convention met after being asked to leave Williamsburg because of growing hostility between the colonists and England. The roster of attendees included Benjamin Harrison, Thomas Jefferson, Richard Henry Lee, Edmund Pendleton, George Washington and Patrick Henry. Our "Patrick Henry", Ken, gave us a tour and delivered with gusto the famous "Give Me Liberty of Give Me Death" speech. To be seated in one of those pews where these men sat with our guide standing in that exact spot that those words were uttered was spine tingling to be sure. The surrounding burial ground contained the grave of Poe's mother and George Wythe, the first VA signer of the Declaration of Independence, and is shaded by the most colorful yellow-leafed tree which unfortunately gave off the odor of vomit! Seriously!
Opting for the scenic route I-5 out of town we drove through pastoral, tree-lined streets admiring the fall foliage on our way to the plantation that was recommened we see-Shirley Plantation on the James River
. http://www.shirleyplantation.com/, It has been owned by the Hill and Carter families since 1638 when it was given to them upon leaving England. It is the oldest continuously owned family business in North America producing cotton (as evidenced upon the long rutted road leading up to it) soybeans, and corn. Direct descendants of the Carter family are actually living in the house on the second story today. We toured the first floor constructed in 1723 noting that the furniture, silver (made in England), dishes, pictures, etc. are all original. Our knowledgeable docent informed us that it was the only plantation around that survived the war and was spared because it was turned into a field hospital where the owners showed their great compassion to the Union soldiers by ripping up their linens for bandages. To save the silver they buried it all over the 3,300 acres and, remarkably, it was accounted for after the war. 
The grounds are beautiful with the original surrounding buildings consisting of the ice house, kitchen,
pump house, root cellar, storehouse,dovecote, etc.. Hmmmm... no slave quarters shown. The most unique fixture was the carved walnut staircase which rises three stories with no visible support, the only one of its kind in America. The owner was very innovative in that he built grates into the floor of each room for the purpose of heating by underground coat heaters. But the the problem was the heat stayed in a column because there were no fans to move it around. Today they are tied into the heating/cooling system. It is a beautiful setting complete with the tree lined entrance reminding you of Gone With The Wind, but we pressed on to Williamsburg.
Arriving at the Lodge at Powhatan, a diamond timeshare resort, we were definitely impressed with the sprawling, lush grounds incorporating lakes, two restaurants, general store, fitness and business center. After checking in and some missed turns we drove to our unit waiting for flocks of Canadian Geese who took over the roads strolling leisurely with no fear of the cars. We had a huge two bedroom two bath, kitchen,dining room, fireplace, 3 tvs, washer/dryer nicely furnished upstairs unit with a balcony overlooking the forest. We made reservations at a historical Williamsburg tavern and set out for what we thought was to be a 20 minute drive but NO. After two hours of being frustratingly lost we gave up and ate at Panera on the way home. Everyone told us the next day to throw out our GPS....it took me to the front of the tavern all right, but a screaming costumed slave told me that this road was not to be used by cars and I faced a $175 fine!!! In all fairness there was a car in front of me too. Street signs as you will find out in VA are not real visible and often missing. Of course there were no such thing as street lights in a historic area. The only saving grace was that we passed a Trader Joe's-yay! My fav. There was hope
FRIDAY,NOVEMBER 6, 2009
Out the door at 9AM we were on our way to the Colonial Williamsburg Visitor Center. After researching the official site at http://www.colonialwilliamsburg.com, for background information we bought a two day pass and attended the movie, "Williamsburg-The Story of A Patriot", starring a young Jack Lord. The 37 minute film gave us great background. We hopped on the complimentary shuttle which delivered us to the Governor's Palace where we participated in an orientation walk with a docent for about 30 minutes. Then we took an hour tour of the palace, the residence of seven royal governors and the first two elected governors of Virginia, Patrick Henry and Thomas Jefferson. Presently, it is shown as the home of Lord Dunmore, British Governor, on the eve of the Revolution. Lots of swords and rifles were elaborately placed on every wall. Patrick Henry awaited us in one of the rooms where he answered any questions. After the governor's residence moved to Richmond in 1780 it was used by Americans as a hospital until a fire burned it to the ground. The kitchen in a separate building on the grounds was still being used for cooking demos and the smokehouse actually had meat in it.
We moved on to tour the Geddy House which served as a residence, workshop, and retail shop. We attended a demonstration/lecture by the shoemaker at his shop-watching him explain how leather was treated, wooden pegs inserted, and pitch and wax melted and pulled all to make boots and shoes for gentlemen. We appreciated the hard work involved. We visited several shops and admired the costumes rented by some families to enrich their visitation. Audience participation was required next at the courthouse, built in 1770 where volunteers are jurors, plaintiffs, and defendants for a mock trial-very well done. Unable to resist the stock we took pictures with our hands and neck encased-not a
comfortable punishment, but better than hanging I guess. We visited the post office, the printers, and a foundry where upon looking down the barrel of a rifle I learned it was spiraled. We had garden fare at Chowning's Tavern and watched some of the speeches in front of Raleigh's Tavern which culminated in front of the Capitol Building. General Benedict Arnold rode up on a magnificent black steed while agitators provoked him. Again, very well done.
Our last tour was the Capitol Building itself where the General Assembly debated and framed legislation and high court judges ruled on the most serious cases. It is H shaped to show the division of the government between lower and upper houses. Weather was in the high 40's as we rode the shuttle back to the visitor center-the only way to go.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2009
Today our pass expired. We decided what we wanted to cover since it is impossible to cover ALL of Historical Williamsburg in two days. The shuttle delivered us in time for an 11 A.M. tour of the De Witt Decorative Art Museum with English and American silver, ceramics, paintings, prints and textiles from 1600-1800. At noon we took another tour with an excellent docent of the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum, the first museum dedicated solely to American Folk Art. We wandered through both after the tours and headed for lunch at The Trellis Restaurant, http://www.thetrellis.com/, home of Death by Chocolate cake. Deciding to eat lightly we shared a peanut butter, Granny Smith apple and bacon sandwich on toasted cinnamon raisin bread accompanied by a small salad of snow peas, cooked carrots, peanut and peanut dressing in anticipation of sharing this famous dessert. What a delightful combination of texture and flavors in that sandwich-a must try at home! Anyway our 1,374 calorie , 6inch and then some, 7
layer extravangaza arrived. It is a chocolate mousse layer, cocoa meringue layer, chocolate brownie layer, chocolate ganache, mocha mousee, and chocolate layer resting in a pool of mocha rum sauce. Two cups of coffee each (to dilute the rich chocolate blendings) and 25 minutes later we had an empty plate (which I photographed for posterity -not that there won't be some lingering on my butt for all to see) and a picture was taken.
After that it was time for a little retail therapy which included the Christmas shop (darling items-check it out) http://www.christmasshopwilliamsburg.com/ and the Nancy Thomas Folk Art Gallery, http://www.nancythomas.com/ ,with a picture I covet of three flappers dressed ,of course ,in red, blue and yellow. For those of you who know me you know that I talk to EVERYONE and Jill, in this gallery, was from Long Beach. We chatted a long time and it was fun-she gave us a restaurant tip since she knew we were on our way to Jamestown the next day. Kathy found a darling metal creche in another shop with lots of cute clothes and holiday items, http://www.gbates.com/. Wonder of wonders, they even had a Chico's in the square. The temps have warmed up to mid 60's today but nights still get chilly so we headed for home with a stop at Steinmarts ( solely for comparison purposes) and TJ's .
SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2009
Boo... our last day of sightseeing. Arriving at the Jamestown Settlement, a new museum has been erected with a cost of over 2 million dollars -most impressive. Our journey back in time began at the Visitor Center where a short movie, "1607 A Nation Takes Root", gave us the background of this group of 104 English men and boys who began a settlement on the banks of Virginia's James River. Sponsored by the VA Co of London whose stockholders hoped to make a profit from the resources of the New World ,they were here 13 years before the Pilgrims. The galleries chronicled the beginnings in the context of the Powhatan Indian, English, and West Central African cultures and the impact of the settlement. We were made aware of so many more details than the history books told us. How I wished that I had done these trips while I was teaching US history. Because we have a 90 minute guided tour of the outdoor living history areas where costumed historical interpreters described and demonstrated activities we didn't have time to finish all the exhibits in the gallery.
Our Powhatan woman met us and showed us the re-created reed covered houses, ceremonial circle and fields. One woman was carving a deer bone and another scraping the hair off of a stretched hide. Noting the differences in the chief's hut shown by bear hides and the the other huts we learned that a chief could have 100 wives. 
Our next guide was a gentleman colonist 
who showed us the James Fort which contained buildings like the storehouse, court of guard and the church. Some homes had thatched roofs and others the more flammable pitch and wood. A blacksmith was at work
and a baker who used an outside oven . Continuing on our way another guide took us to the replicas of the three ships: Susan Constant (the largest), Godspeed and Discovery where one can board them and explore. 
For more information log on to http://www.historicjamestowne.org/
Temps were in the 70's today and time was precious so we left for lunch and the Yorktown Victory Center. We visited The Carrot Tree Restaurant, recommended to us by Jill. It used to be one of those 5 room strip motels on the side of the road, but is now a funky, neo green painted restaurant/bakery where comfort food was the name of the game. In 1984 the owner was challenged by a restaurant manager to produce a better carrot cake and she did by calling grandma for the recipe and baking until 3 A.M. The rest is history-a few burnt up family ovens followed by a commercial bakery and in 1995 The Carrot Tree. It is Williamsburg's only "scratch" bakery. You can tell food is her love-I had a meatloaf sandwich with cheddar cheese and Thousand Island Dressing accompanied with red potato salad-superb! Kathy opted for the ham quiche with marinated carrot salad and loved it. We took a piece of the famous carrot cake for later.
We reached the Yorktown Victory Center late in the afternoon after another scenic drive, amazed at the proximity of Jamestown,Williamsburg, and Yorktown. Finally, I got my Golden Age Lifetime National Park Pass (we are questioned everywhere we go for our age)after which we viewed another movie, "A Time of Revolution" which was excellent. Right on out for the 90 minute guided tour by Ranger Linda who showed her passion for this historic battlefield and love of history. After seeing the British Inner Defense line, the Second Allied Siege line, the redoubts and cannons we marveled at warfare in that day and age.
Yorktown, founded in 1691 as a tobacco port, is now remembered for the Battle of Yorktown, the last major battle of the Revolution in 1781. General Charles Cornwallis under siege by 17,600 Continental troops, his escape from this peninsula blocked by French ships that have chased the British ships away, surrndered to General Washington and the rest... you know the story. Would our youth of today have the guts and courage battling with lack of food, clothing, ammunition,and superior soldiers to press on for freedom? I wonder and editorialize here, how anyone could not believe that divine intervention played a part in our achieving our independence.
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMER 4, 2009 2:30 A.M. Kathy Larson and I started our day hoping not to be fogged in at the airport in San Diego, Lindbergh Field. Luckily, all went smoothly and we arrived in downtown Richmond in our rented PT Cruiser.We packed our GPS wo we wouldn't be lost but an agent was not around to give us an orientation re the car's features. So in the middle of rush hour traffic we approached a toll booth requiring exact change, but we couldn't figure out how to roll down the window. I'm sure all the commuters loved us as we stopped the car, opened the door, threw in the change, and left-joy! How were we to know the controls were over the radio? I must say Richmond drivers are very patient!
Downtown Richmond, capitol of Virginia, is bounded by the James River to the south and I-95 to the north and east, very much in a grid pattern. The Berkeley, http://www.berkeleyhotel.com,a four diamond AAA rated boutique hotel with 55 rooms, was in a great location within Shockhoe slip, the restored commercial tobacco area. Our package included breakfast , valet parking, and some very knowledgeable hotel personnel.
Handmade chcolates on our pillow was a perk. The desk clerk recommended Juleps, http://www.juleps.com/, in one of the city's oldest commercial buildings. Walking carefully along dark, cobble stoned streets in 42 degrees we passed the empty farmer's market and reached our destination. Escorted up a spiral staircase we reached the dining room beneath an open attic with original exposed beams dating back to 1737. After perusing the tantalizing menu with the help of our water, Ben, we ordered Fried Green tomato Beignets with a roasted Jalapeno lemon aoli-YUM! For an entree I ordered jumbo lump crab cakes with black lentils, rice, and roasted sweet corn mixed together topped with a green tomato-avocado guacamole and coriander sauce-Scrumptious! Kathy tried her first Mint Julep (they even gave you the recipe). Not my favorite drink but admittedly, better than my first one at Kentucky Derby-give me a pomegranate martini anytime. I chose a glass of wine from their extensive list. Kathy's entree was the grilled New York steak with a blue cheese, applewood bacon crust served with garlic confit mashed potatoes, Vidalia onion rings,creamy spinach and sherry vinegar beef just. I would recommend this restaurant highly to everyone.THURSDAY,NOVEMBER 5, 2009
At breakfast we sought advice from the maitre'd and set off for the Edgar Allen Poe Museum where we squeezed in between two 8th grade field trips (they warned us,but we thought we could handle it.) Poe was raised in Richmond. This complex has four buildings with rare first editions, a gallery of illustrations inspired by The Raven, along with a model of early 19th century Richmond.
Our next stop is St. John's Church at 2401 Broad Street where in 1775 the Virginia Convention met after being asked to leave Williamsburg because of growing hostility between the colonists and England. The roster of attendees included Benjamin Harrison, Thomas Jefferson, Richard Henry Lee, Edmund Pendleton, George Washington and Patrick Henry. Our "Patrick Henry", Ken, gave us a tour and delivered with gusto the famous "Give Me Liberty of Give Me Death" speech. To be seated in one of those pews where these men sat with our guide standing in that exact spot that those words were uttered was spine tingling to be sure. The surrounding burial ground contained the grave of Poe's mother and George Wythe, the first VA signer of the Declaration of Independence, and is shaded by the most colorful yellow-leafed tree which unfortunately gave off the odor of vomit! Seriously!
Opting for the scenic route I-5 out of town we drove through pastoral, tree-lined streets admiring the fall foliage on our way to the plantation that was recommened we see-Shirley Plantation on the James River. http://www.shirleyplantation.com/, It has been owned by the Hill and Carter families since 1638 when it was given to them upon leaving England. It is the oldest continuously owned family business in North America producing cotton (as evidenced upon the long rutted road leading up to it) soybeans, and corn. Direct descendants of the Carter family are actually living in the house on the second story today. We toured the first floor constructed in 1723 noting that the furniture, silver (made in England), dishes, pictures, etc. are all original. Our knowledgeable docent informed us that it was the only plantation around that survived the war and was spared because it was turned into a field hospital where the owners showed their great compassion to the Union soldiers by ripping up their linens for bandages. To save the silver they buried it all over the 3,300 acres and, remarkably, it was accounted for after the war. The grounds are beautiful with the original surrounding buildings consisting of the ice house, kitchen,pump house, root cellar, storehouse,dovecote, etc.. Hmmmm... no slave quarters shown. The most unique fixture was the carved walnut staircase which rises three stories with no visible support, the only one of its kind in America. The owner was very innovative in that he built grates into the floor of each room for the purpose of heating by underground coat heaters. But the the problem was the heat stayed in a column because there were no fans to move it around. Today they are tied into the heating/cooling system. It is a beautiful setting complete with the tree lined entrance reminding you of Gone With The Wind, but we pressed on to Williamsburg.Arriving at the Lodge at Powhatan, a diamond timeshare resort, we were definitely impressed with the sprawling, lush grounds incorporating lakes, two restaurants, general store, fitness and business center. After checking in and some missed turns we drove to our unit waiting for flocks of Canadian Geese who took over the roads strolling leisurely with no fear of the cars. We had a huge two bedroom two bath, kitchen,dining room, fireplace, 3 tvs, washer/dryer nicely furnished upstairs unit with a balcony overlooking the forest. We made reservations at a historical Williamsburg tavern and set out for what we thought was to be a 20 minute drive but NO. After two hours of being frustratingly lost we gave up and ate at Panera on the way home. Everyone told us the next day to throw out our GPS....it took me to the front of the tavern all right, but a screaming costumed slave told me that this road was not to be used by cars and I faced a $175 fine!!! In all fairness there was a car in front of me too. Street signs as you will find out in VA are not real visible and often missing. Of course there were no such thing as street lights in a historic area. The only saving grace was that we passed a Trader Joe's-yay! My fav. There was hope
FRIDAY,NOVEMBER 6, 2009
Out the door at 9AM we were on our way to the Colonial Williamsburg Visitor Center. After researching the official site at http://www.colonialwilliamsburg.com, for background information we bought a two day pass and attended the movie, "Williamsburg-The Story of A Patriot", starring a young Jack Lord. The 37 minute film gave us great background. We hopped on the complimentary shuttle which delivered us to the Governor's Palace where we participated in an orientation walk with a docent for about 30 minutes. Then we took an hour tour of the palace, the residence of seven royal governors and the first two elected governors of Virginia, Patrick Henry and Thomas Jefferson. Presently, it is shown as the home of Lord Dunmore, British Governor, on the eve of the Revolution. Lots of swords and rifles were elaborately placed on every wall. Patrick Henry awaited us in one of the rooms where he answered any questions. After the governor's residence moved to Richmond in 1780 it was used by Americans as a hospital until a fire burned it to the ground. The kitchen in a separate building on the grounds was still being used for cooking demos and the smokehouse actually had meat in it.
We moved on to tour the Geddy House which served as a residence, workshop, and retail shop. We attended a demonstration/lecture by the shoemaker at his shop-watching him explain how leather was treated, wooden pegs inserted, and pitch and wax melted and pulled all to make boots and shoes for gentlemen. We appreciated the hard work involved. We visited several shops and admired the costumes rented by some families to enrich their visitation. Audience participation was required next at the courthouse, built in 1770 where volunteers are jurors, plaintiffs, and defendants for a mock trial-very well done. Unable to resist the stock we took pictures with our hands and neck encased-not a
comfortable punishment, but better than hanging I guess. We visited the post office, the printers, and a foundry where upon looking down the barrel of a rifle I learned it was spiraled. We had garden fare at Chowning's Tavern and watched some of the speeches in front of Raleigh's Tavern which culminated in front of the Capitol Building. General Benedict Arnold rode up on a magnificent black steed while agitators provoked him. Again, very well done. Our last tour was the Capitol Building itself where the General Assembly debated and framed legislation and high court judges ruled on the most serious cases. It is H shaped to show the division of the government between lower and upper houses. Weather was in the high 40's as we rode the shuttle back to the visitor center-the only way to go.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2009
Today our pass expired. We decided what we wanted to cover since it is impossible to cover ALL of Historical Williamsburg in two days. The shuttle delivered us in time for an 11 A.M. tour of the De Witt Decorative Art Museum with English and American silver, ceramics, paintings, prints and textiles from 1600-1800. At noon we took another tour with an excellent docent of the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Folk Art Museum, the first museum dedicated solely to American Folk Art. We wandered through both after the tours and headed for lunch at The Trellis Restaurant, http://www.thetrellis.com/, home of Death by Chocolate cake. Deciding to eat lightly we shared a peanut butter, Granny Smith apple and bacon sandwich on toasted cinnamon raisin bread accompanied by a small salad of snow peas, cooked carrots, peanut and peanut dressing in anticipation of sharing this famous dessert. What a delightful combination of texture and flavors in that sandwich-a must try at home! Anyway our 1,374 calorie , 6inch and then some, 7
layer extravangaza arrived. It is a chocolate mousse layer, cocoa meringue layer, chocolate brownie layer, chocolate ganache, mocha mousee, and chocolate layer resting in a pool of mocha rum sauce. Two cups of coffee each (to dilute the rich chocolate blendings) and 25 minutes later we had an empty plate (which I photographed for posterity -not that there won't be some lingering on my butt for all to see) and a picture was taken. After that it was time for a little retail therapy which included the Christmas shop (darling items-check it out) http://www.christmasshopwilliamsburg.com/ and the Nancy Thomas Folk Art Gallery, http://www.nancythomas.com/ ,with a picture I covet of three flappers dressed ,of course ,in red, blue and yellow. For those of you who know me you know that I talk to EVERYONE and Jill, in this gallery, was from Long Beach. We chatted a long time and it was fun-she gave us a restaurant tip since she knew we were on our way to Jamestown the next day. Kathy found a darling metal creche in another shop with lots of cute clothes and holiday items, http://www.gbates.com/. Wonder of wonders, they even had a Chico's in the square. The temps have warmed up to mid 60's today but nights still get chilly so we headed for home with a stop at Steinmarts ( solely for comparison purposes) and TJ's .SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2009
Boo... our last day of sightseeing. Arriving at the Jamestown Settlement, a new museum has been erected with a cost of over 2 million dollars -most impressive. Our journey back in time began at the Visitor Center where a short movie, "1607 A Nation Takes Root", gave us the background of this group of 104 English men and boys who began a settlement on the banks of Virginia's James River. Sponsored by the VA Co of London whose stockholders hoped to make a profit from the resources of the New World ,they were here 13 years before the Pilgrims. The galleries chronicled the beginnings in the context of the Powhatan Indian, English, and West Central African cultures and the impact of the settlement. We were made aware of so many more details than the history books told us. How I wished that I had done these trips while I was teaching US history. Because we have a 90 minute guided tour of the outdoor living history areas where costumed historical interpreters described and demonstrated activities we didn't have time to finish all the exhibits in the gallery.
Our Powhatan woman met us and showed us the re-created reed covered houses, ceremonial circle and fields. One woman was carving a deer bone and another scraping the hair off of a stretched hide. Noting the differences in the chief's hut shown by bear hides and the the other huts we learned that a chief could have 100 wives. Our next guide was a gentleman colonist who showed us the James Fort which contained buildings like the storehouse, court of guard and the church. Some homes had thatched roofs and others the more flammable pitch and wood. A blacksmith was at work and a baker who used an outside oven . Continuing on our way another guide took us to the replicas of the three ships: Susan Constant (the largest), Godspeed and Discovery where one can board them and explore. For more information log on to http://www.historicjamestowne.org/Temps were in the 70's today and time was precious so we left for lunch and the Yorktown Victory Center. We visited The Carrot Tree Restaurant, recommended to us by Jill. It used to be one of those 5 room strip motels on the side of the road, but is now a funky, neo green painted restaurant/bakery where comfort food was the name of the game. In 1984 the owner was challenged by a restaurant manager to produce a better carrot cake and she did by calling grandma for the recipe and baking until 3 A.M. The rest is history-a few burnt up family ovens followed by a commercial bakery and in 1995 The Carrot Tree. It is Williamsburg's only "scratch" bakery. You can tell food is her love-I had a meatloaf sandwich with cheddar cheese and Thousand Island Dressing accompanied with red potato salad-superb! Kathy opted for the ham quiche with marinated carrot salad and loved it. We took a piece of the famous carrot cake for later.
We reached the Yorktown Victory Center late in the afternoon after another scenic drive, amazed at the proximity of Jamestown,Williamsburg, and Yorktown. Finally, I got my Golden Age Lifetime National Park Pass (we are questioned everywhere we go for our age)after which we viewed another movie, "A Time of Revolution" which was excellent. Right on out for the 90 minute guided tour by Ranger Linda who showed her passion for this historic battlefield and love of history. After seeing the British Inner Defense line, the Second Allied Siege line, the redoubts and cannons we marveled at warfare in that day and age.
Yorktown, founded in 1691 as a tobacco port, is now remembered for the Battle of Yorktown, the last major battle of the Revolution in 1781. General Charles Cornwallis under siege by 17,600 Continental troops, his escape from this peninsula blocked by French ships that have chased the British ships away, surrndered to General Washington and the rest... you know the story. Would our youth of today have the guts and courage battling with lack of food, clothing, ammunition,and superior soldiers to press on for freedom? I wonder and editorialize here, how anyone could not believe that divine intervention played a part in our achieving our independence. Our tour lasted until 4:45 P.M. after which we did not have enough time to view the town and the rest of the areas including the Moore House where officers from both sides met to negotiate surrender terms.
for more information go to http://www.historyisfun.org/Yorktown-Victory-Center.htm
We freshened up at home for our last night's dinner in historic downtown Williamsburg at an authentic English Tavern, The King's Arms, opened in 1772 by Jane Vobe. It was so much easier (did I really say that) to find our way around now that we knew how the town was laid out and had watched where the shuttle stopped. Everyone was in costume. After being seated in one of the rooms by the fireplace,we we sampled peanut soup, a Southern favorite which sort of tasted like melted peanut butter, pickled watermelon rind, salty ham bits, and a corn relish. Both of us ordered the chop of Shoat,a maple and whisky brined double cut pork chop with tavern potatoes, cabbage braised with applewood smoked bacon, and creamed spinach with nutmeg and parmesan cheese, http://www.kingsarmstavern.com/. Everyting was good made more so by both a visit from costumed Jane and a serenade by a minstrel with a pocket mandolin. Authentically if you stayed in an inn you were expected to provide some sort of entertainment yourself. They even had pocket cellos.
We freshened up at home for our last night's dinner in historic downtown Williamsburg at an authentic English Tavern, The King's Arms, opened in 1772 by Jane Vobe. It was so much easier (did I really say that) to find our way around now that we knew how the town was laid out and had watched where the shuttle stopped. Everyone was in costume. After being seated in one of the rooms by the fireplace,we we sampled peanut soup, a Southern favorite which sort of tasted like melted peanut butter, pickled watermelon rind, salty ham bits, and a corn relish. Both of us ordered the chop of Shoat,a maple and whisky brined double cut pork chop with tavern potatoes, cabbage braised with applewood smoked bacon, and creamed spinach with nutmeg and parmesan cheese, http://www.kingsarmstavern.com/. Everyting was good made more so by both a visit from costumed Jane and a serenade by a minstrel with a pocket mandolin. Authentically if you stayed in an inn you were expected to provide some sort of entertainment yourself. They even had pocket cellos.
The town is deserted and quiet by 9 p.m. and we drive through (courtesy of our GPS) the William and Mary Campus on our way back to the lodge.
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2009
We checked out and headed for the airport and our flights back home after absorbing and enjoying a lot of history made even more perfect because we both had a love and appreciation for it We absborbed ourselves totally in the experience. The fall foliage, lack of crowds at this time of year ,and sunny weather enhanced the experience. Our appetites were sated with fabulous food. We vowed to return to see what we missed adding Monticello and West Point which were only @80 miles away.
TIPS; There are many places both inexpensive and expensive to stay from the Comfort Inn to the Williamburg Inn and all kinds of restaurants from the unique to the familiar. BUT remember not to rely too heavily on your GPS in historic areas. Be aware that VA has terrible signage and street lighting. Allow for more time than the guidebooks say if you truly want to experience everything to the fullest. Do your research ahead of time using on line resources and friends who might have been there prior to your visit. Don't be afraid to ask for advice/opinions/and recommendations of all you come in contact with-be friendly. But most of all enjoy!
MONDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2009
We checked out and headed for the airport and our flights back home after absorbing and enjoying a lot of history made even more perfect because we both had a love and appreciation for it We absborbed ourselves totally in the experience. The fall foliage, lack of crowds at this time of year ,and sunny weather enhanced the experience. Our appetites were sated with fabulous food. We vowed to return to see what we missed adding Monticello and West Point which were only @80 miles away.
TIPS; There are many places both inexpensive and expensive to stay from the Comfort Inn to the Williamburg Inn and all kinds of restaurants from the unique to the familiar. BUT remember not to rely too heavily on your GPS in historic areas. Be aware that VA has terrible signage and street lighting. Allow for more time than the guidebooks say if you truly want to experience everything to the fullest. Do your research ahead of time using on line resources and friends who might have been there prior to your visit. Don't be afraid to ask for advice/opinions/and recommendations of all you come in contact with-be friendly. But most of all enjoy!
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